Roof erection in a brick country house.

We continue our work. Let me remind you that in previous publications you have already learned how to build the foundation and box at home. Now they “reached” to work at the height. They are part of the main stage. Very responsible work, however, like everyone else. Today we will talk about the construction of the roof. When performing work at a height, the precautions should be observed.

Roof design

We will use the traditional gable roof. This choice is due to its good protective properties and a simple design: it copes with the discharge of precipitation and is quite simple in installation. The absence of observation windows, balconies, yards and fractures of slopes on it does not create obstacles to retaining snow. In addition, such a roof has good strength and its weight relatively small.

Rice.1

The roof device is shown in Figure 1. As you can see, its base is a wooden frame. It is installed on the ceilings and is covered with roofing material on top. In their quality we use metal tiles. She was chosen because of her good appearance, lightness and versatility. Thus, the roof consists of three main parts:

– prepared base (ceilings);

– frame;

– roof.

Two roof slopes converge upstairs and form a roof ridge. Space from other sides (facade and rear), between the slopes, forms the pediments of the building. They, depending on the type of roof, can have a different shape. In our case, they are triangular.

We already have the necessary materials, so let’s start the installation.

Work process

Before starting the assembly of the frame, you should prepare the base for it. Preparation is to clear the place for elements of the frame and laying waterproofing. PC concrete slabs laid on the walls of the box, you need to make moisture -proof. To do this, you need to lay a layer of waterproofing materials on them. What to choose – you decide, their choice today is quite large.

Then Mowelrata and Leji are laid. They are powerful bars of the desired section (usually 150*150 mm). We put them on ceiling floors – PC plates. On the side they are closed with brick laying of the wall. Capable wire or powerful studs are walled into this masonry – Mowelrat is attached by them. In addition, sometimes in the upper part, brick masonry with the help of studs and bars is pulled together with block masonry. The purpose of such a screed is the integrity of the wall under the influence of the roof so that the roof slopes do not part in different directions.

Photo 1

Lying, maowelrates and brick masonry form the base. Racks, runs and tights are installed on it. As a result, you get the basis on which, in turn, rafters will be based. There are no runs in our design, instead of them, special pricces will be installed to give strength in the longitudinal plane (see. Photo 1). Also, to enhance the strength and withstanded load, the rafters are made of double bars with a cross section of 50*150 mm each. This section is standard for the manufacture of rafters and other elements of the roof frame.

The size and angle of the slope of the slopes depends on the specific sizes of your house. There are many formulas and recommendations to calculate the angle of inclination. The taste of the owner of the building under construction also plays a role here. Someone likes at home with a high roof, someone with a low.

In any case, you need to consider the following:

– The higher the roof, the less it is resistant to wind loads and pressure;

– the lower the roof, the more precipitation accumulates on it.

In addition – the minimum angle of inclination should not be less than 14 degrees. Usually it is 35-60 degrees. All wooden details before installation or after it is treated with an antiseptic and anti -tribunum composition. The distance between neighboring rafters should not be more than 1.5 m. It is usually made within 0.7-1 m.

On the rafters with a colemer, a hydraulic canvas – vapor barrier over the entire area of ​​the roof. Then we press it with a counterpart. We combine the bars exactly according to the rafters (along) and naize. We make sure that the canvas in the middle of the sag between the rafters sagging a couple of centimeters. Then, across the rafters and the counterparts we mount the crate. The crate is nailed at an interval of 350-450 mm, depending on the brand of the tile. For a crate, a board is used from 50*25 mm to 100*25 mm, for the recruitment – 50*50 mm.

Both roof slopes should be exactly the same in order and size. If you cannot accurately measure the angles of the slope of the slopes, then just measure each ramp diagonally – everything will be clear at once. Follow the evenness of the slopes. If necessary, we align with the help of additional bars of the crate or counterparty.

Next, we begin the installation of the roof – metal sheets. Sheets of metal tiles usually have a standard total width, about 1180 mm. Given the overlap, the useful width will be less – approximately 1100 mm. Products and other width are rarely produced, with a deviation of both large and less. The length of the sheet can be different. What you order, they will do this to you. Most often order sheets of 3.5-4.5 m long. There is a rule-with a slope length of more than 6-7 meters, sheets are mounted in two rows laid on overlap. The upper sheet is laid on top of the lower 150-200 mm. The edge of the sheet should protrude above the cornice of 50 mm. To the crate, the sheets of tiles are screwed with special colored self -tapping screws with washers.

On the roof horse riding a skate, a ridge protective element in the form of a corner-pound is mounted. The same details are fixed and throughout the edge of the slopes. They need them to protect against precipitation and wind, as well as a good appearance of the roof. The cornice bar is attached from below. Subsequently, the brackets of drains are attached to it.

Final work on the roof

The pediment is also equipped with a crate. On top of it, they make casing with siding, moisture -resistant panels or lining. As a rule, windows are mounted in the middle of the pediment, and on the back of the house – the door or the ventilation grill. The cornices are sheathed on top with tiles or profiled sheet to the color of the main roof, and on the facade side with white plastic.

Photo 2

When the roof slopes are ready to display ventilation and chimney ducts. In our case, only plastic ventilation pipes are used, which are excreted through ceiling slabs. Holes are broken into them, then the pipe is inserted and sealed around the mounting foam. One pipe is excreted through the pediment and rises above the roof skate, the second simply rises above the ceiling level (see. Photo 2). In the future, indoors can be installed in these pipes exhaust fans. If there is a chimney, take all measures for its reliable isolation from the combustible materials of the roof. To do this, use metal or asbestos.

Now you need to insulate ceiling ceilings. Usually, a layer of sand, slag or sawdust with a thickness of 15-25 cm (depending on your region and climate) is simply applied to waterproofing. If desired, you can use more expensive thermal insulation materials.

The protruding parts of the crate are closed with plastic lining or other suitable materials. Do not forget to securely fix the bar for introductory brackets of the electric network on one of the side edges of the roof. It will be necessary to bring from below the wire bred from the box of the building at the previous stage. Sometimes they do without this operation. But at the same time, at the stage of the construction of the building of the building, fix the brackets on one of the walls – in brickwork.

Rice 2

When planning the arrangement of a residential attic, the roof should be insulated. Why are sheets of thermal insulation material that are lined with decorative panels, lining, or a board from the inside. The pediment is insulated by the same principle. The finished roof in the section should look approximately as in rice. 2.

Now work at altitude can be considered completed. You can go down from heaven to earth – go inside the building. But first, you should give the house to stand for at least 6 months, and preferably 1 year. During this period, he will shrink, and only then will we start work in the room. You can return to the construction plan, find out what we will do next.